Review: Kanosuke Reimagines the Potential of Japanese Whisky

What we’re drinking: Three core Japanese whisky expressions from Kanosuke Distillery

Where it’s from: The Kanosuke Distillery was founded in 2017 and named after Kanosuke Komasa, the second-generation leader of its parent company, Komasa Jyozo (which started in 1883). The distillery is located on a 2.2-acre tract of land along Fukiagehama, a beach on the west coast of Kagoshima Prefecture. According to Kanosuke Distillery founder, CEO and Master Blender Yoshitsugu Komasa, a fourth-generation spirits maker, the area offers a “unique microclimate that creates mellow whiskies that are rich and complex.”

Kanosuke distillery, top view — The Kanosuke Distillery, located in the Kagoshima Prefecture

Kanosuke

Why we’re drinking these: As Japan’s whisky-making rules become more codified and demand for product soars, we’re happy to try newer brands that fall outside the big two producers.

Not that Kanosuke is “new,” at least in experience. For decades the Komasa family has made its name in shochu, and some of those techniques are still at play in the new(ish) distillery.

“This brand is to honor the vision of my grandfather,” says Yoshitsugu. “He created the first cask-aged shochu, in 1957, to spotlight Japan’s noble spirits using techniques learned from whisky. They would be very proud that we are crafting whisky today.”

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Surprisingly bold expressions showcasing local grains and unique barrel maturations

The distillery house features three unique pot stills, each with a different neck shape and lyne arm angle. And the distillery itself pulls its influences from a variety of unexpected sources.

“The Hioki Japanese Pot Still Grain Whisky is inspired by Irish pot still whiskey,” says Head Distiller and Chief Blender Shunichi Nakamura. “But instead of traditional copper pot stills, we use stainless steel pot stills. We also use vacuum distillation, which is traditionally used in shochu production. We mature in new American white oak casks. It’s a completely new style of Japanese whisky.”

Let’s give ‘em a try.

How they taste:

Kanosuke Japanese Single Malt Whisky: Aged in a combination of ex-bourbon, sherry and re-charred virgin oak barrels which previously contained Mellowed Kozuru (a rice shochu), this one is gentle, full of citrus notes (mainly lemon), banana, cinnamon and a hint of minerality.
Kanosuke Hioki Japanese Pot Still Grain Whisky: The standout here, and certainly shows its Irish whiskey influences. Plenty of stone fruit here (apricot, plum), along with citrus, vanilla, orange marmalade, almonds, toasted sweet oak and candied ginger.
Kanosuke Double Distillery Japanese Blended Whisky: A blend of the above two and coming in at a powerful 53% ABV, this one is more floral with plenty of melon, red berries, lemongrass, and a bit of black tea and clove.

Where to buy: You can find Kanosuke’s core range in your finer local liquor stores and at The Whisky Exchange.