A few decades post-World War II, many in the West found themselves part of the new leisure class. (Though economic times were good fairly immediately post-VE Day in the U.S, the same couldn’t be said for Allied nations in Europe, which endured the brunt of the Nazi advance and faced austerity measures during the War.) By the 1960s and 1970s, SCUBA diving was an established pastime; jet airliners were crisscrossing the globe; and for those with not only the time, but the means, sailing was a fun, glamorous way to spend time outdoors.
Before the advent of digital timers, computers, GPS, et al — as well as the Quartz Crisis, which devastated mechanical watchmaking in the 1970s and 1980s — mechanical timing devices were used by crews and judges to keep track of a regatta’s progress. Many watch companies both large and small produced such timepieces, which are often termed “regatta timers” or “yacht timers.”
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Unlike a Formula 1 race — or any other land-based race, for that matter — it’s nearly impossible to come to a complete stop on the water, even when at anchor. Thus, during a regatta, a horn blast sounds the beginning of a countdown to the race’s start. A vessel’s skipper then has the chance to plot a course that will take his or her vessel across the starting line as close to the start time as possible — but not before. (Cross the line before the actual start time, and you’re heavily penalized.) Many of these watches thus featured countdown functions that let the wearer know how many minutes were left between hearing the countdown horn and the actual start.
These days, of course, these functions are all handled digitally, with timing devices that boast the utmost in pinpoint accuracy. Though technically advantageous for skippers and for those timing these races, some degree of mechanically-induced romance is admittedly lost when one is no longer engaging a chronograph pusher. Interestingly, however, several watch companies have been reviving vintage yachting and sailing designs recently, mining back catalogs for vintage reissues and also, in a few cases, releasing completely new models. Here, we’re going to examine some of the best such timepieces — just in case you feel the need to relive the heyday of midcentury America’s Cup!
Due to their high water resistance, inclusion of useful complications such as chronographs, and sporty colorways, these watches are appropriate for more than just boating — indeed, they also make for great everyday sport timepieces, especially during the summer months. So don’t think you need to be a qualified skipper to snag yourself a sailing watch. (Though it certainly wouldn’t hurt.)
NOTE: Keep in mind that an analog, wrist-borne timing instrument is far from the optimal way to time a race these days; a digital timer will do the job much more accurately and efficiently, of course. But that’s not why we love watches, people!
CITIZEN Promaster Sailhawk
We’re cheating a bit with this ana-digi model from CITIZEN, but bear with us, ‘cause this thing is chock full of cool and useful features, and it’s affordable as all hell! Housed in a 44m stainless steel case with 200m of water resistance, it sports a dial simply bristling with technology, including a conventional clock; a world timer; a 99-minute countdown timer; dual alarms; a 1/100th-second chronograph that measures up to 24 hours; a split-lap timer; a UTC display; and much more. Available in multiple colors and paired to a rubber dive strap, this light-powered watch is ready for sailing — or just about anything else.
- Diameter: 44mm
- Movement: CITIZEN Eco-Drive light-powered
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Special Features: Too numerous to enumerate
- Price: $440
Tissot Sideral
A modern update to the world’s first fiberglass watch from 1971, the Tissot Sideral is not — unlike many yacht timers — a chronograph; rather, it features countdown scales on both its bezel and dial for precisely timing the start of a race. (The bezel as well as the dial are highly lumed, so if you happen to be sailing your yacht at night, you’re in for a treat!) Available in yellow, red, or blue, the Sideral is housed in a forged carbon case with a black PVD unidirectional bezel and features a rubber strap with a unique fastening system. Water resistant to a whopping 300m and powered by the Powermatic 80 automatic movement with Nivachron hairspring, it’s got to be one of the best values, at just under $1,000, in the watch world.
- Diameter: 41mm
- Movement: Powermatic 80 automatic
- Water Resistance: 300m
- Special Features: Forged carbon case; unique strap fastening system; countdown scales
- Price: $995
BOLDR Supply Co. Odyssey Regatta
The Odyssey Regatta is a no-holds-bar tool meant to take a serious licking a keep on ticking: Measuring a don’t-mess-with-me 45.5mm wide and boasting 500m of water resistance, it’s equipped with a cool unidirectional bezel with a combination 15-minute countdown timer and nautical tachymeter scale; a triple-register chronograph with a 10-minute countdown function; a day-date display; and — in a thoughtful touch — a skeletonized handset for increased legibility. Furthermore, this puppy is powered by the automatic Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement — a horological legend if ever there was one. Though it’s almost laughably large, it’s one of the cooler, more contemporary designs on the market.
- Diameter: 45.5mm
- Movement: Valjoux 7750 automatic
- Water Resistance: 500m
- Special Features: Combination countdown/tachy bezel; triple-register chrono w/countdown scale; day-date display
- Price: $1,499
Christopher Ward C65 Chronograph
The C65 from British brand Christopher Ward is another instance of vintage inspiration influencing what is otherwise an entirely new design. An amalgam of various yachting and tool watches from the 1960s/1970s, it’s a wildly cool-looking, 41mm steel chronograph with a screw-down crown and pushers; an automatic Swiss movement; a unidirectional dive bezel; and a Tropic rubber dive strap. But the show-stopper is the dial — with its outer tachymeter scale, date window above 6 o’clock, bi-compax layout, and countdown scale, it’s an excellent mix of function and eye-catching aesthetics. And for a hair over $1,500, it’s a pretty great value, too.
- Diameter: 41mm
- Movement: Sellita SW510 BHa Automatic
- Water Resistance: 120m
- Special Features: Screw-down pushers; countdown scale; dive bezel; tachymeter scale
- Price: $1,650
Nivada Grenchen X Analog:Shift Chronomaster ‘Big Eye’ Yachting Limited Edition
Back in the 1960s and 1970s, Nivada Grenchen made some of the coolest chronographs in the world — the Chronomaster, in particular, combined features essential to drivers, divers, and pilots. Now, the once-defunct Swiss watchmaker is back, this time in partnership with Analog:Shift, the pre-owned and vintage watch division of Watches of Switzerland. Their new limited-edition Chronomaster ‘Big Eye’ Yachting Limited Edition is a yachting version of the Chronomaster, with a 30-minute totalizer at 3 o’clock featuring a 10-minute countdown scale. Powered by a hand-wound Swiss movement and paired to a super comfortable “beads of rice” bracelet, this is one of the best vintage-inspired releases of the year — though its colorway and details are entirely new.
- Diameter: 38mm
- Movement: Sellita SW510 BH B hand-wound
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Special Features: Countdown totalizer; combination 12-hour/60-minute bezel
- Price: $1,995
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TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
In 1967, the Intrepid, a 12-meter yacht fielded by the New York Yacht Club, took home the America’s Cup with Heuer yachting timepieces onboard. In celebration, Heuer released a special yachting watch using the vessel’s signature teal color, which it dubbed the Skipper. Ultra-rare and highly beloved, this watch formed the basis of this year’s new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper, a regular-production model Carrera in a 39mm “glassbox” steel case. With its colorful, distinctive aesthetics, triple-register chronograph, and blue sailcloth strap, the new Skipper is a well executed take on a legendary timepiece, and one whose versatile looks make it just as appropriate on land as it is on the water.
- Diameter: 39mm
- Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre TH20-06 automatic
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Special Features: Triple-register chronograph with date
- Price: $6,750
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 44MM
This burly 44mm Seamaster produced in celebration of the 36th edition of the America’s Cup features an impressive combination of assets that make it uniquely suited to yachting: water resistant to 300m, it has a dual-register chronograph with a countdown indicator that can be locked by the user to prevent accidental stopping/starting. Additionally, it sports a blue ceramic bezel ring with a conventional dive/timing scale, plus a stainless steel bracelet and, for good measure, a helium escape valve. Truly, this is a timepiece that can handle just about any aquatic activity one could conceivably throw at it.
- Diameter: 44mm
- Movement: Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9900 automatic
- Water Resistance: 300m
- Special Features: Lockable chronograph with countdown scale; HEV
- Price: $11,900
Rolex Yacht-Master 42
At the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show in early 2023, Rolex dropped its first titanium-clad production model, the new Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Looking like a Submariner on steroids, this is the yachting watch for someone who actually owns his own yacht — not to mention an estate in Nantucket. Measuring 42mm in diameter and featuring a matching Oyster bracelet, a bidirectional timing bezel and a black dial, it’s almost laughably light, as well as super advanced: With Chromalight lume, a chronometer-certified, automatic movement, and 100m of water resistance, it’s a highly accurate, robust timekeeper. (Though in this case, timing a race may be less the point than looking like a boss on your yacht.)
- Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3235 automatic
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Special Features: RLX titanium construction
- Price: $14,050
VINTAGE: Memosail Regatta Yachttimer
It’s only a matter of time before some enterprising young soul revives this defunct name, but until then, you’ll have to scour the internet for a vintage version: Behold the Regatta Yachttimer from Memosail, one of the most innovative regatta watches of them all. Available in various cases — some more avant-garde than others — it features a wildly cool system in which, upon activation, the letters “S T A R T” are replaced with numbers 10-6 against a yellow background, and then 5-1 against a red background as the countdown progresses. The main handset is actually undersized and of secondary importance on this incredible timepiece — though that probably won’t matter too much as you cut across the water in your matching vintage yacht.
- Diameter: 41-46mm (depending on execution)
- Movement: Valjoux 7337
- Water Resistance: Not much anymore
- Special Features: Unique countdown system on dial
- Price: ~$1,000-$1,500
VINTAGE: Aquastar/Heuer Regate
A star of vintage regatta timers, the Regate — which was produced by Aquastar, Heuer, Tissot, and others — featured another unique countdown system that’s just as notable for its colorful aesthetics as its functionality. At the top of the dial is a series of five windows, behind which revolves a multi-colored disc. Upon activation, the disc begins rotating, indicating the remaining minutes until the start of the race. Highly legible, well sized, and featuring a cool, skin diver-esque case, this is another handsome piece just waiting for a contemporary reissue. In the meantime, you can find ‘em on eBay, Chrono24, and the like.
- Diameter: 37mm
- Movement: Lemania automatic
- Water Resistance: N/A
- Special Features: Unique countdown system on dial
- Price: $2,000-$4,000
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