Typically, it’s spring and early fall that provide the most horological heat, with Watches & Wonders Geneva offering a slew of new releases in March and April, followed months later by a busy third quarter full of compelling drops. But Geneva Watch Days, a relatively new trade show, now takes place at the end of the summer, providing an additional layer of excitement for collectors.
This year, brands large and small gave us timepieces to drool over, with new releases from Bulgari and Doxa taking center stage, and a premier model from a brand-new company adding an unexpected jolt to the proceedings. Enjoy these — and plenty more — new releases from the last gasps of summer, and join us next month as we round up the first batch of new pieces from the always thrilling fall season.
A Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst
In celebration of the 25th anniversary of the famed Datograph model, Lange has released a special edition of just 25 pieces with a stunning hand-engraved dial. Measuring 41mm in yellow gold, the dual-register chronograph with outsize dates features tremblage engraving against black rhodium and light-grey surfaces, giving a subtle three-dimensional effect that contrasts beautifully with the precious-metal case. Powered by the hand-wound L951.8 movement, it’s a fitting celebration for a collection that continues to wow even the most experienced collectors.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: A. Lange & Söhne cal. L951.8 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Doxa SUB 300T Aristera
There are relatively few left-hand watches on the market — the black-and-green Rolex GMT-Master II comes to mind, as do several other tool watches from Sinn, Mühle, etc. — but divers will be excited to hear that Doxa is now joining the “destro” party. Taking its name from the Greek for “left,” the SUB 300T Aristera moves the crown to the 9 o’clock position, but otherwise maintains everything we love about the 300T: a 42.5mm stainless steel case; 1,200 of water resistance; an aluminum bezel insert with “no-deco” scale; and a beads-of-rice bracelet.
Diameter: 42.5mm
Movement: Sellita SW200-1 automatic
Water Resistance: 1,200m
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit/Studio Underd0g Passion Fruit 03Series
Who in their right mind would complain about two-for-one watches? The new Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit from Moser and the Passion Fruit 03Series from Studio Underd0g celebrate — well — passionfruit, with acidic colors including bright yellow for the inner dials and purple for the outer edges. While the Studio Underd0g model is a relatively simple dual-register chronograph, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is a unique take on the QP with a barely discernible, small central month indicator and a date window at 3 o’clock.
Diameter: 42mm (Moser); 38.5mm (Studio Underd0g)
Movement: HMC cal. 800 hand-wound; Sellita SW510 M (hand-wound)
Water Resistance: 30m
Bring Back These Vintage Watches, Please
Yes, we need horological innovation and fresh blood. We’d also love to see these old classics return.
Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph
Imagining a type of yacht timer that never was, the Maxigraph is a joint endeavor between Massena LAB and Albishorn, a new watchmaker that launched at this year’s Geneva Watch Days. Powered by a proprietary automatic caliber — a grand entrance for a brand-new marque — its dial is a riot of color and functionality: In the lower left-hand quadrant is a 10-minute countdown timer, while a running seconds indicator and multiple concentric timing scales provide plenty of visual interest. It’s 50% 1930s inspiration and 50% 2020s tech, but 100% cool.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Albishorn proprietary automatic caliber
Water Resistance: 100m
De Bethune DB28 XS Aérolite
De Bethune’s futuristic wares never fail to impress with their strange cases, innovative complications and compelling aesthetics, but many are so large that wearing them can feel awkward for those with smaller wrists. The new DB28xs Aérolite, however, measures just 38.7mm, yet retains the DB’s out-of-this-world looks. Its matte-black anthracite zirconium case is contrasted with a stunning dial composed of blue meteorite with a random guilloché pattern and transferred pink Arabic numerals. If the Men in Black were issued a watch, this might be it!
Diameter: 38.7mm
Movement: De Bethune DB2005 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono shows the extent to which a tool watch can also be a beautiful object. Its hefty case with locking pushers, engraved tachymetric bezel, dual-register chronograph scale and snowflake handset are inherently good-looking, but the new Tudor Blue version adds a fresh layer of luxury to the proceedings. The domed blue of the dial with silver totalizers tends to mesmerize, while the new five-link bracelet with polished inner links adds yet another level of sheen. Add in the brand’s MT5813 automatic movement, and you’ve got yourself one heck of a handsome watch.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Tudor MT5813 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 w/Bracelet
IWC is a brand that doesn’t know how to make an ugly watch — though for many years, much of its catalog was just too darn big. Not anymore: The new Portofino Chronograph 39 is a perfect 39mm in diameter, while its mushroom pushers, up-down chronograph configuration, handsome silvered dial and matching multi-link bracelet paint a distinctly elegant picture. The automatic IWC cal. 69355 beating within offers 46 hours of power reserve, and a quick-change system allows one to swap out the stainless steel bracelet for a strap if desired.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: IWC cal. 69355 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGY035
The SBGY035 is a festive celebration of 20 years of the Caliber 9R, the manually-wound Spring Drive movement that combines elements of mechanical and battery-powered timekeeping. Measuring a lovely 38.5mm in stainless steel, it features a vibrant red dial in with a graduated effect that darkens at the dial edges. Meant to evoke the early morning glow of Japan’s Hotaka mountain range, it’s overlaid with diamond-cut hands and markers, plus a vibrant orange seconds hand. Just 10.2mm thick, it’s an excellent contemporary dress or everyday watch with unique looks and an excellent movement.
Diameter: 38.5mm
Movement: Grand Seiko cal. 9R31 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Unimatic X The Armoury Modello Cinque U5S-TA ‘Blu Notte
Unimatic knows its way around an affordable tool watch, while The Armoury is the premier destination for menswear in Hong Kong and New York City; when the two team up on a watch together, you know it’s going to be special. The new Modello Cinque U5S-TA Blu Notte, housed in a 36mm stainless steel case with an oversized, screw-down crown, is a tool watch through and through, but its beautiful, deep-blue dial with concentric circles mimics the effect of rippling water in a manner that implies thoughtfulness and serenity. Who could resist such a handsome thing?
Diameter: 36mm
Movement: Sellita SW200-1b automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Alpina Heritage Automatic
It’s tough to complain about a good-looking, vintage-inspired everyday watch upsized slightly to modern tastes. The new Heritage Automatic from Alpina, which is available in two distinct dials, fits the bill exactly: Measuring 38mm in stainless steel and powered by the automatic Sellita SW200-1 movement, it offers 1940s aesthetics in either a beautiful two-tone dial with a silvered hour track set against an inner sand-colored dial, or a single-color, military-like option with a railroad minute track and large Arabic indices. Either way, both will add a touch of 20th-century flair to a modern collection.
Diameter: 38mm
Movement: AL-520 (Sellita SW200-1) automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
When the typical collector thinks of Breitling, they perhaps tend not to picture ultra-complicated movements, but this is precisely what the maison has developed in the form of the new B19 automatic movement, an in-house perpetual calendar with chronograph. Housed within three new 140th-anniversary models, we find the Navitimer version particularly fetching. Its 43mm, 18K red-gold case and matching dial are unabashedly luxurious, with the latter featuring numerous displays that allow one to track the date, day, month, leap year, moon phase and more.
Diameter: 43mm
Movement: Breitling cal. B19 automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Longines Legend Diver
The Longines Legend Diver, based on a Compressor-style model from 1959, is one of the OG vintage reissues — and for good reason. Its distinctive, dual-crown case, inner rotating bezel, cool shovel-shaped handset, and matching beads-of-rice bracelet look good in just about any configuration Longines manages to cook up. Which is to say, the three newest versions in green, terracotta and anthracite grey are a welcome addition to the party. Measuring 39mm and boasting an impressive 300m of water resistance, they provide excellent value at under $4,000.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Longines cal. L888.6 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Bulgari Aluminum GMT X Fender Limited Edition
A collaboration between two long-established, forward-thinking brands, the new Bulgari Aluminum GMT x Fender Limited Edition celebrates 70 years of the iconic Fender Stratocaster, a guitar heard on countless recordings by artists ranging from Jimi Hendrix to John Mayer. The super lightweight, 40mm aluminum watch head — which is paired to a matching, integrated brown rubber strap — features a brown rubber bezel framing a two-tone dial in which a brown and cream gradient center is surrounded by a 24-hour scale used to indicate a second time zone. Useful and cool!
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Bulgari B192 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
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