“This is a city of shifting light, of changing skies, of sudden vistas,” Queen Victoria mused in her journal after visiting Scotland for the first time in 1842. “A city so beautiful it breaks the heart again and again.” She was talking, of course, about Edinburgh.
It’s uncanny how true the then-23-year-old Queen’s words still ring, the Scottish capital just as alluring nearly two centuries later. How effortlessly it straddles the line between new and old, foreign and familiar, well-loved and uncharted. At once it conjures images of medieval castles and cobblestone streets, but also miles and miles of every shade of green imaginable. After all, Edinburgh is the greenest city in one of the world’s, at least, greener countries. In fact, it was named Europe’s leading sustainable destination for 2023 by the World Travel Awards. This is, in no small part, thanks to Edinburgh’s continued dedication to responsible tourism.
There are lots of Edinburgh guides out there, so how do you parse through everything? I found that by putting together an itinerary that capitalizes on just that (the aforementioned dedication to responsible tourism), I was able to tap into a really special side of Auld Reekie. That’s the thing about sustainable companies — their passion for environmentalism seeps into their real offerings, whether it’s a five-course dinner or a bike tour. They serve as a living, breathing testament to the fact that you can still travel responsibly and get an authentic experience, and that green travel isn’t as other as it’s often made out to be.
Below, how to enjoy Edinburgh, in all of its convivial glory, with the help of both properties and operators (fully vetted) who are prioritizing sustainable tourism.
Where to Stay
There are no shortage of memorable stays in Edinburgh (you can find evidence of that here), but The Witchery by the Castle offers a truly singular experience — and it is an experience. Located at the top of the Royal Mile, it’s pretty nondescript from the outside…and anything but on the inside. With just nine suites, each with its own story, it was once described as “outrageously gothic” and a “fabulous, shamelessly camp temple of too-muchness,” which feels exactly right. The Inner Sanctum, coincidentally the room I stayed in, was the original suite — originally serving as the owner, James Thompson’s, living quarters until friends convinced him to start renting it out. All the antiques in the rooms (and there are many) are sourced from all over (antique shops, fairs, auctions, etc.), with collections continually being added, which gives it a very museum-esque feel. The first thing I did after checking in was clear the rest of my schedule for the rest of the afternoon so that I might maximize my time in my room. Per its website, “The Witchery’s restoration of historic buildings dating from 1595 shows a passion for long-term conservation and giving historic buildings a useful and sustainable future.”
That said, being that there are only the nine rooms, it can be difficult to secure a reservation. Luckily, The Witchery has a sister property, boasting a very similar vibe and located on a country estate right in the heart of Edinburgh, just five minutes from Old Town. At the Prestonfield House, you’ll find 18 bedrooms and five suites all totally decked out in rich, jewel-toned textiles and antiques, set on 20 acres of gardens and parkland — a welcomed juxtaposition from the hustle and bustle of the city. If you’re looking for all the charms of The Witchery, with a little more quiet and a lot more space, Prestonfield House — whose mantra is reduce, reuse, recycle and restore — should be top of list.
If you’re in the market for something a little more modern (although, it’s worth noting that all the rooms at both The Witchery and Prestonfield House are outfitted with Dyson appliances), Market Street Hotel features a more soothing, contemporary design. Described as a modern-day “fortress,” and inspired by its unique historic site, it’s comfortable and, of course, very primely located. To offset the environmental cost of travel, Market Street Hotel has implemented energy and motion tracking in corridors as well as smart thermostats in the rooms to conserve energy, totally digitalized the guest experience, cut back on single-use plastics and committed to preserving water wherever possible, among other things.
Where to Eat
If you’re staying at The Witchery, you’d be remiss not to stop down for a meal at the Original Dining Room. With painted ceilings, baroque décor and only candlesticks to light the room, it’s a one-of-a-kind immersive dining experience with a menu to match. As participants in the Green Tourism Business Scheme, 100% of waste and glass from the Original Dining Room is recycled, and food and organic waste sent out for composting.
Similarly, at Prestonfield House, Rhubarb Restaurant is required dining. On top of sourcing produce from small artisan suppliers, Rhubarb Restaurant relies on the fruits (lettuce, stem broccoli, carrots, courgette flowers, chives, kale, mint, peas, herbs and, aptly, rhubarb) of its kitchen garden. It works closely with Hamilton’s Waste — a company that specializes in environmental solutions — to ensure it is “zero waste to landfill,” and kitchen trimmings of vegetables are fed to the resident Highland cattle.
Set in what was once an eyesore of a 1960s-era shopping center, Bonnie & Wild’s Scottish Marketplace is just one part of what has been called the biggest retail development in the U.K. in recent years, and one of the first proper food halls in Scotland. Seeking to champion Scottish food, Bonnie & Wild relies on the talents of amazing chefs — Gary Maclean of Creel Caught, the National Chef of Scotland and MasterChef: The Professionals winner, chief among them — and lots of fresh Scottish produce. With eight food stalls, three bars, a patisserie, boutique bottleshop and nearly 400 seats, it checks all the boxes if you’re traveling with an indecisive group. If you count yourself among the indecisive, El Perro Negro won Best Burger in the U.K. twice — once in 2019 and again in 2021 — while Kochchi, Scotland’s first Sri Lankan street food business, won the People’s Choice at the Scottish Street Food Awards in 2022. The menus err to the smaller side, but each dish is executed very well.
Cannonball Restaurant and Bar is a 17th C townhouse situated next to Edinburgh Castle on the Royal Mile. Cannonball, the restaurant that currently occupies the three-story building, is a masterclass in local, seasonal cuisine. It offers monthly changing seasonal a la carte menus, a set menu and seasonal tasting menu. Contini, Cannonball’s parent company, have been members of the Slow Food Movement for over 20 years, “prioritizing good, clean, fair and healthy food which doesn’t harm the environment whilst also being fairly priced for the producers and the customers.” There’s also a cocktail and whisky bar where you can enjoy a classic cocktail or, if you’re feeling frisky, a whisky flight.
Touted as being an all day dining destination right on the Royal Mile, Luckenbooths sources its inspiration from Scotland’s larder. With a lot of good options for both vegans and vegetarians, as well as all locally sourced ingredients, it’s the perfect place to post up with a cocktail, or a bite, and catch your breath after a long day of exploring the city.
Another restaurant within walking distance of all the most iconic of Edinburgh’s sites, The Gardener’s Cottage, by design, feels a bit like venturing into a secret garden (the building was owned by the royal gardener in the mid-19th century). It offers a set, seasonal menu that rotates every three months and that often utilizes herbs, in conjunction with other local fare, from the garden growing directly out front. It’s small, only sitting 24, so a reservation is advised, though walk-ins are also welcome.
The Perfect 7-Day Scotland Itinerary
From haggis toasties to world-famous golf courses, here’s where to go and what to do in Great Britain’s greenest pastures.
What to Do
Take a walking tour with Invisible Cities. A not-for-profit organization, Invisible Cities — after helping to secure temporary accommodations — trains local people affected by homelessness and refugees to be tour guides in their city. After completing a training program — which includes public speaking, customer service, first aid, body language, exploration of the city, etc. — each guide is empowered to organize and build their own tour, inspired by their own interests. Currently, there is an Ediburgh-specific science tour, a true crime tour and a witch tour, as well as a women of Edinburgh tour. I took the witch tour, led by a Pagan guide, who was annoyed with how unauthentic the rest of the Pagan tours were in Edinburgh.
What appears, at least outwardly, to be a tourist trap, The Scotch Whisky Experience is actually a surprising exploit. It represents all Scotch whiskeys, not any particular brand, so it makes for a very well-rounded tour. It offers an overview of Scottish whisky, broken down by region, and plenty of opportunities to taste based on preference. There are a number of tours to choose from, all of which are inclusive of families with children. Further, it’s assessed under the Green Tourism scheme — the leading sustainable tourism certification scheme in the U.K., which puts emphasis on people, place and planet — and currently holds a Gold award.
Another fantastic, and eco-friendly, way to explore Edinburgh is with EZ Bike Tours. The only e-bike tour company in Edinburgh, EZ Bike Tours is run by a two-person team and offers totally customizable tours based on your interests. They cater to groups of all sizes, though six to 12 is the sweet spot. They know a lot about Edinburgh, and a lot about e-bikes, and the subsequent tours allow the opportunity to cover a lot of ground in short amounts of time (each runs approximately three hours).
Get Outside (of the City)
Witness Scotland’s wildlife and conservation efforts firsthand on a boat tour off the coast of North Berwick with Scottish Seabird Boat Tour. In total, there are 37 species of seabirds that are regularly spotted around Scotland, and more than five million seabirds breeding there each year. For its part, the tour takes you past Bass Rock, home to the biggest colony of Northern gannets in the world (somewhere in the ballpark of 150,000). From April-July, you can also see the puffins.
If that doesn’t scratch the boat itch, get out on Loch Lomond on a Loch cruise with Sweeny’s Cruise Co. Colloquially known as the Queen of Scottish lochs, Loch Lomond spans a good 23 miles and, in addition to being home to a bevy of wildlife, has inspired a wealth of legends and folklore. Sweeney’s Cruise Co. is of the longest running family businesses in Scotland, and has operated boats on Loch Lomond since the 1880s, thus the tour is every bit as educational as it is pleasant.
You may not associate Scotland with gin, yet a trip out to Leith and, more specifically, to the Lind & Lime distillery will have you thinking differently. For the uninitiated, Leith once served as the historic gateway to Edinburgh, which meant that Kings, Queens, armies and navies often passed through. Lind & Lime is very much an ode to that history. Further, Lind & Lime gin is distilled with 100% green electricity, produced with 100% organic ingredients and packaged with 100% plastic-free materials. The tour of the distillery comprises a tasting, cocktail-making class and bottle filling.
And if you do nothing else, make sure you get yourself to Fodder + Farm — a “regenerative farm-to-table event space and supper club series” on the fringe of The Trossachs in Port of Menteith. It’s owned and operated by husband and wife Kat Goldin and Kevin Harrison, in partnership with private chef Lucy Pattison. Fodder + Farm brings “locally sourced ingredients” to an entirely other level. In fact, many — squash, mushrooms, apples, pears, etc. — are foraged right on the property. Pattison specializes in open fire cooking, and even the charcoal she uses comes from just two miles down the road. It’s an incredibly special place, run by an inspiring collection of people. Plus, there are goats.
Pro tip: If you don’t plan to rent a car, consider hiring a guide through Rabbie’s. Starting out 30 years ago with just one bus in Edinburgh, it’s said to be the oldest tour company in Scotland. It’s since expanded all over Europe, employing local drivers with a passion for where they live. They only offer small bus tours for a more intimate experience. If you can, request Mac — you won’t regret it.
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