There are countless reasons to visit Mexico, chief among them its varied beaches, vibrant cities and world-class food. But if you want to immerse yourself in the country’s most culturally significant holiday, then set your sights on Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead. This annual holiday occurs November 1 and 2, though celebrations may stretch over the course of several days, depending on where you are. Anyone who’s seen Pixar’s Coco has a rudimentary grasp of the holiday, but — probably unsurprisingly — there’s more to it than can be covered in a 100-minute animated film (great movie, though).
The practice stretches back at least 3,000 years to the Aztecs, who believed that life was a preparation for death and that death involved a journey to reach the soul’s final resting place. To assist loved ones along the way, family members would set out food, gifts and other items, a ritual still practiced symbolically today via ofrendas, shrines that feature photos, candles and offerings to honor the dead. The holiday is rooted in family, and most observances take place in the home, but today you’ll find larger celebrations featuring parades, costumes and other festivities in destinations all across Mexico. If you want to join in, these six cities are great places to start.
Oaxaca
Oaxaca may be Mexico’s most well-known celebratory center for Día de los Muertos. Preparations for festivities begin in the weeks leading up to November 1, with vendors selling traditional marigold and cockscomb flowers, and homes and businesses decorating their entrances for the occasion. Celebrations typically begin on October 31, aka All Saints Eve, when families visit the gravesites of deceased relatives. While some visits are somber, many others are respectful but cheerful, with offerings and mezcal toasts.
The Zocalo — the city’s main public plaza — will be teeming with vendors, street performers, mini parades, alters and face painters. Local markets will sell traditional foods and drinks, and altars will grace seemingly every business in town. If you want more cultural immersion than can be accessed by a self-led stroll, Oaxaca tour companies offer guided Day of the Dead tours that range in scope but may include a cemetery visit, local meal and even a visit to a friendly home to see how locals observe the holiday.
Mexico City
The 2015 James Bond movie Spectre portrays a massive Day of the Dead parade through Mexico City. That wasn’t filmed from an actual celebration — it was created specifically for Spectre — but it was so lively and vibrant and popular that it’s now a regular part of the city’s holiday festivities. You can and probably should partake because it’s a great way to spend a few days in Mexico City while exploring this global capital of cuisine and culture.
Start at the Zocalo for larger-than-life ofrendas and celebrations, buy pan de muerto, tamales and other traditional snacks from street vendors, and bask in the ubiquitous bright-orange marigolds. Similar festivities take place in other town squares and pedestrian-friendly streets, so you’ve got options. But if you want to get outside the bustling city center, consider heading to Xochimilco, a district known for its floating islands and canals. There you can book a boat ride to celebrate on the water, enjoying traditional foods and drinks while taking in the views and terrestrial flower gardens.
San Miguel de Allende
There’s never a bad time to visit San Miguel de Allende, the UNESCO World Heritage Site nestled into the hills of Guanajuato, but Day of the Dead brings a few special touches to the city. Vendors selling marigolds line the streets and plazas, and Mojigangas — larger-than-life papier-mâché puppets often seen leading wedding processionals through the city — come out to play in traditional dress.
There are plenty of places to celebrate in San Miguel, including public squares and rooftop restaurants. But one easy way to participate is by heading straight to Rosewood San Miguel de Allende. It hosts one of the largest celebrations in town, with roughly 500 guests in attendance and a new theme each year. The party features traditional foods, altars and live entertainment. The property even transforms one of its meeting spaces into a beauty salon, with stations where professional makeup artists provide services for guests who want skull or Catrina-style makeup. This year, guests can also check out the property’s brand-new Pirules Garden Kitchen, a restaurant and market serving authentic Mexican food made from local ingredients. Because it’s hard to party on an empty stomach.
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Mérida
Mérida is the capital of the Mexican state of Yucatán, known for its colorful buildings, great food and high quality of life. Recent years have seen American expats flock there in droves, but you don’t have to change your address to enjoy the city. During Día de los Muertos, most celebrations occur inside the home, but you’ll still find street parades, cemetery tours and markets hawking pan de muerto, candy and sugar skulls. Make sure to visit the plaza grande for official celebrations featuring altar competitions, music and traditional dances.
Janitzio Island
The visually stunning Isle of Janitzio isn’t floating off the coast of one of Mexico’s many shorelines — it’s found in landlocked Michoacán’s Lake Pátzcuaro. Visitors take advantage of regular boat transfers to stroll the city and climb the 365 steps leading to the 40-meter statue of José María Morelos on the island’s highest point. But when Día de los Muertos rolls around, the island comes alive with activity. Artisan markets spring up, with vendors selling flowers, souvenirs, atole and traditional foods, including the small local fish caught by the area’s many fishermen. Churches and graveyards fill with family members who gather to honor their deceased loved ones, placing photos and offerings and lighting candles. It’s beautiful and vibrant, but it’s always good to remember this is not a party or a spectacle, so be respectful and refrain from taking photos of mourners and private ofrendas. But do bring cash to partake in the delicious foods and drinks dotting the town.
Puebla
Puebla’s multi-day Día de los Muertos celebration is a cornucopia of visuals, including murals, symbolic altars and women in Catrina makeup and flowing dresses. Stands are overflowing with bright orange marigolds and magenta cockscombs, plus traditional food and drinks. Take in the mix of indigenous and colonial-influenced architecture and historic town center, which is recognized as a UNESCO heritage site. And don’t miss the trueque, a market where locals practice the ancient tradition of buying and bartering for goods. Leading up to Day of the Dead, they trade items to put on their altars, including pan de muerto, flowers, candies and more.
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