Classic formalwear and summer don’t tend to mix. After all, layers upon layers of worsted wool and 85-degree temps find themselves in moral opposition. And yet, there’s also a bevy of social functions as spring turns — warm-weather nuptials, work soirees, the odd gala — that demand you look your best. It can feel like inopportune timing, to say the least.
The traditional workaround for warm-weather suiting has long presented itself in the form of breezy linen tailoring. The material, which is naturally porous, is unparalleled in its ability to maximize airflow while retaining a formal flair, and has established itself as the de facto fabric of choice for much of the suiting offered during the summer.
This longstanding reputation may have led to some unflattering associations with crumpled suit jackets and geriatric stylings, but fret not — the current cannon of linen suits offered by menswear’s best and brightest are anything but curmudgeonly.
To that end, we’ve enlisted the help of our friends across the pond, MR PORTER, and tapped into their current summer stock for five fresh ways to pull off linen this summer. There are new, relaxed sprezzatura style offerings from Italian labels like Barena, and refreshed takes on the classic linen suit from the sartorialists at Kingsman. There’s even a hot salmon joint from MR PORTER’s in-house label. Use as ‘fitsperation, or just commandeer the entire look — either way, you’re looking at a very breezy, very well-dressed summer.
Make an Colorful Impression
There’s a time-honored tradition of not wearing white to a wedding…but no one said anything about hot pink. Cut from a delicious, 100% linen, the soft shoulders and relaxed cut of this double-breasted suit from Mr P. make it a total breeze to wear, especially when paired with the appropriate dress shirt — perhaps something sophisticated from Canali — and an delightfully tasteful tie. Just be wary — the peak lapels on this dapper jacket look sharp enough to draw blood.
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Embrace Relaxed Elegance
It’s easy to think that sizing up will solve your problems, but there is a definitive art to wearing relaxed clothing, one that often demands of the garments themselves. Barena’s Borgo Suit has cracked the code — equal parts carefree and polished, the linen set is tailored to perfection, with slim lapels and the slightest of leg tapers that telegraphs unencumbered ease. Trending accouterment will only serve to elevate the look, especially if they happen to come from one of the hottest brands on the planet.
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Respect Refined Tailoring
Linen suiting has a storied history dating back to the 18th century, and while we’re not suggesting you bust out the flaxen tailcoat for the July work retreat, it’s worth considering the timeless look of a relaxed, double-breasted linen suit for your warm-weather outings. The gentlemen at Kingsman cut an exceptional jacket, even without considering the eye-catching nature of their sage-hued summer suit. It’s perfectly tailored and all but certain to make an impression. Just make sure you’re dressing it up correctly — a pair of sharp George Cleverly suede loafers should do the trick nicely.
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Set Sail for Luxury
Quite luxury? Never heard of her. A summer of grand plans demands a linen suit to match, and an ultra-luxe puppytooth double-breasted jacket from Italian craftsman Brunello Cucinelli is just what the yacht captain ordered. Remember, the prerogative here is bold — leaning into stark separates and brazen displays of wealth (read: Loro Piana boat shoes) is, if anything, encouraged, especially when the Mediterranean is involved.
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Keep It Cool, Casually
The biggest misconception about summer suiting is that it needs an occasion. Much like you might lean on your flannel two-piece on the odd Tuesday at the office, linen tailoring can and should be worn anywhere and everywhere. Obviously, the suit in question has to be up to the task —we’ve found Mr P.’s unstructured cotton-linen set free enough to conquer an afternoon of meetings, but rugged enough to handle the subsequent drinks. Pair with a knit polo, naturally, and any chosen accessories to set you apart from the rabble.
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