Just as in men’s fashion, the watch world experiences aesthetic cycles. Watch insiders might notice an abundance of new blue-faced watches across various brands, while other years might see the release of interesting new shapes, or perhaps new dive watches. While we won’t delve into the micro-trends, one enduring macro trend is an overarching nod to elegant dress watches. Slim, minimal and smaller timepieces are increasingly gracing the wrists of stylish men, representing the antithesis of the “look at me” aesthetic characterized by ornate and large watches that demand attention. These watches, instead, embody understated elegance.
While heritage pilot watches and robust dive watches will never go out of style, many guys are embracing the more minimal side of horology for everyday wear. Once primarily associated with black-tie occasions, dressier watches inspired by the ’50s and ’60s are making appearances on the red carpet, adorning individuals such as Cillian Murphy, Ryan Gosling, Simu Liu, and Jonathan Bailey. These timepieces feature sleek and streamlined faces with minimal indices, often incorporating a touch of art deco for a timeless feel. The watch faces typically measure less than 40mm, presenting a thin profile. The choice of leather straps further streamlines the design and enhances the overall vintage aesthetic.
These watches represent a return to stylish minimalism and understated elegance that proves you don’t have to be flashy to make a statement. Bigger is not always better, and less is sometimes more. Here are 10 of our favorites of varying styles and price ranges.
Cartier Tank Must Watch
Whenever someone asks me to recommend a timeless, elegant, and stylish recommendation within this budget range, my go-to suggestion is usually the Cartier Tank. Launched in 1917, little has changed about the Tank’s iconic rectangular face, blue hands, and Roman numerals. It is an instantly recognizable piece that encapsulates elegance, style, and history.
Piaget Altiplano Origin Watch
Measuring a mere 2mm in thickness, the Altiplano stands out as one of the slimmest luxury watches ever crafted. Featuring off-center displays, alternating double and simple indexes, and “baton” hands, the ultra-thin Altiplano boasts an instantly recognizable face. Not to mention the expert and heritage craftsmanship required to house movements in such a slim case.
Timex Marlin Hand-WOund 34mm Leather Strap
You’d be hard-pressed to find a watch at this price point that embodies retro minimalism as well as the Timex Marlin. The Marlin has achieved cult status, and for good reason. This reissue of a 1960s timepiece with its brushed stainless-steel face, retro numerals, and black textured leather strap sets embodies a vintage aesthetic that will never go out of style.
Omega De Ville Tresor
Launched in 1967, the Omega De Ville integrated Omega’s proven movements into a slimmer, simpler, and meticulously finished design. This specific De Ville, crafted in their trademarked 18K Sedna gold, showcases a fiery rose gold hue achieved through a unique composition of copper and palladium. The striking red-faced version closely resembles the model recently worn by Cillian Murphy at the Golden Globes
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Waldan Heritage Olive Khaki
Though slightly sportier than the dressier watches on this list, the beautifully designed heritage watch from the American brand Walden stands out with its eye-catching olive green retro dial and leather strap. With an accessible price point, the Americquartz movement ensures accurate timekeeping, and the superluminova hands assist in reading the time in the dark.
Raymond Weil Toccata
The Toccata quartz watch from Raymond Weil showcases a railway-track ring, Roman numeral indexes, and a yellow-gold PVD-plated case, all complemented by a black leather strap. Its retro heritage vibe effortlessly complements both casual attire, such as a T-shirt and jeans, and more formal tailoring, making it your new everyday watch.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
Inspired by 1950s design, the Patrimony collection by Vacheron Constantin is renowned for its minimalist luxury. Crafted in 18K pink gold, the hour markers gracefully trace the curve of the dial, and the case back reveals an oscillating weight in 22K gold inspired by the Maltese cross. The blue dial in this model introduces a modern twist while preserving its timeless elegance.
Breguet Classique
Breguet’s iconic “Blue hands” have become a standard term in the horological world. Invented in 1783, the blue-steel hand, with its representation of a hollowed apple or crescent moon, achieved instant success. This modern Classique ultra-slim model continue this tradition, housed in an 18k white gold case with Roman numeral markings.
Glashutte Senator Sixties
According to Glashütte, the Sixties line was created to capture the spirit and joie de vivre of the 1960s, from the era of the Beatles to the first man on the moon. The domed silvered dial, rose gold hands, and retro Arabic numerals present a perfectly minimal and mid-century aesthetic, offering a timeless nod to one of the most influential decades.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso at Mr. Porter
Born in 1931, the Reverso stands as another iconic watch, distinguished by its instantly recognizable rectangular geometric case. Its minimalist and slim Art Deco design radiates timeless elegance and refinement, placing it in a class of its own. Originally conceived to shield the glass during polo matches by allowing the case to be flipped or reversed, the rest, as they say, is horological history.
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