Closet Constructor: The Hack to Take Your Uniform to New Heights

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Welcome to Closet Constructor, a weekly series where I (a style editor) help you (a well-meaning person who likes clothes) discover new, interesting and affordable ways to really start dressin’.

It’s something of an open secret that some of the best dressers — that is, the ones with the most dialed personal style — often lean on some semblance of a uniform. Giorgio Armani, Yohji Yamamoto, Raf Simons. There are entire omnibuses dedicated to the topic.

While this may seem contrary to the general conceit that eclectic equates to stylish, it’s actually quite a rational assertion. So long as the base components are solid, general parameters around fit, color and style uncomplicate the delicate art of putting that sh*t on (PTSO), but don’t tend to restrict the flow of creative expression, as the constants and the compounds of a uniform function are typically swag-tastic in their own right, at least the case with PTSO experts.

Prolific photographer Bill Cunningham in 1998 and 2014, wearing the exact same thing.

Getty Images

We’re big proponents of the power of a uniform here at InsideHook — it’s undeniably freeing to find something that works and stick with it — and, serendipitously, fall is a perfect period for you to kick off your own uni journey.

Naturally, there are a host of general tips and tricks to best optimize your personal look, be it business-casual or outright avant-garde. These range from obvious (buy doubles or, better yet, triples of well-fitting garments) to simplistic (you should probably bump your pants fit up a notch) to slightly more sartorially advanced (a pop of intentional accessory color adds some much-needed character to darker neutrals).

If you’re searching for tangibles, there’s one hack that I’ve been particularly bullish on for the impending autumn season, swapping out your retro sneakers and loafers for a pair of leather, preferably lugged, Derbies. The footwear is easy enough to find — most retailers carry a house-made pair (J.Crew’s Ludlow Derbys are a serviceable option), and the style is abundant on secondary markets like eBay — incredibly versatile and adds a sense of structure and ruggedness to most uniforms, especially the ubiquitous Copenhagen-style button down-trousers that trend-forward men have been adopting in droves. They’re heavy enough to handle bad weather and wool pants and punk enough to add some attitude.