Closet Constructor: What Makes a Simple 'Fit Good?

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Welcome to Closet Constructor, a weekly series where I (a style editor) help you (a well-meaning person who likes clothes) discover new, interesting and affordable ways to really start dressin’.

We live in a time of fashion maximalism. I say this not just in reference to the physical proportions of clothes — although they have certainly gotten baggier, or at least wider, in the past half-decade, perhaps for the best — but a sweeping “more is more” attitude that’s been adopted as the correct form of consideration when approaching clothing.

Buck Mason’s Just-Launched Summer Suiting Collab Prioritizes Quality

J. Mueser for Buck Mason is the menswear collision we didn’t know we needed

This is not a bad thing. The male specimen, on the whole, has had a turgid history with getting dressed. The act of throwing on whatever is placed in their closet has long been common practice, and, for someone who writes about clothes for a living, the boom of interest in MenswearTok, boutique streetwear brands and “puttin’ that shit on,” is a welcome change.

With this influx of big red boots and Bushwick-style knee-length jorts, however, there’s been a minor Mandela Effecting of the cornerstone of clothing — basics. Not basic clothing — I am of the firm belief that the stretch chino has no place in the modern sartorial landscape — but basics, the staples that keep your wardrobe churning, week in and week out. You already know them. (I write about them a lot.) Jeans, a solid white tee, sneakers that you can kick around in.

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Maybe men “discovering” Mary Janes and double-breasted blazers, while a-okay in my book, have inadvertently benched the James Dean uniform. Or maybe the vibe shift is based on the fundamental misconception that a white tee is boring. This is a shame, especially headed into summer, where a flash of bicep and some well-fitting jeans is objectively the hottest thing a fella can wear. (Just ask the boss.)

The combination of a white tee and jeans is so solid because of its versatility and timelessness — it can be dressed to suit virtually any body and sense of style, from guys who like a bit more coverage (opt for a pair of relaxed jeans and a heavyweight top) to men who want to show off the gains (a fitted white tee and some cowboy-cut denim) to the galaxy-brain guy who has realized he can incorporate big-swing flexes into the age-old template.

Again, this should not be novel information, but rather, a healthy reminder not to stray too far from the light. A few refreshers here: As always, quality matters. Given the stripped-back nature of this ensemble, picking high-quality garms is a surefire way to avoid looking sloppy. This doesn’t have to mean expensive — just look at Buck Mason’s loomed Pima tees or 3sixteen’s American-made denim — but it does mean shopping with intention. Or just letting me dress you. Not in a weird way.

Buck Mason and 3sixteen offer quality basics at an affordable price.

Buck Mason

One last mansplain before you go. Remember fourth-grade math class? Me neither, but there’s a very important lesson from our 11-year-old dabblings with fractions: the golden ratio. Not some esoteric DaVinci Code formula, but the idea of dressing in thirds — one part for your top, two parts for your bottoms. It serves to extend the body and cut down on an apish torso, and while it’s not an exact science, clocking that you should be conscious of your hips is a big step.

Now go out into the world and take this revolutionary doctrine (jeans and a white tee look really good when done right!) with you on your weekend escapades. Have a cheeky pint as you watch City clinch the league again — just don’t spill your Stella on your new 3sixteen jeans. Paolo out.