Closet Constructor: When Did We Forget About the Pique Polo?

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Welcome to Closet Constructor, a weekly series where I (a style editor) help you (a well-meaning person who likes clothes) discover new, interesting and affordable ways to really start dressin’.

The widespread introduction of the sweater polo into modern sartorial vernacular is a trend that will surely be studied by anthropologists shortly. Everywhere you look, the modern metrosexual (can I still say this?) is stanced up in a ribbed, fully-placketed $50 Abercrombie knit, or, if they have their wits about them, the upgraded Todd Snyder version. Weddings, work, first dates, you name it. Even the Brads and Chads of the world have caught onto the fact that a little sweater polo goes a long way.

This mass adoption has been, for the most part, a net positive for men’s fashion. There are many pros to the style: it’s a better-looking, better-fitting business casual option than its golf polo cousin that dominated the 2000s, and, if TikTok views are to be believed, it has served as something of a gateway drug for millions of men looking to invest a bit more time, effort and money into how they present themselves.

However, this abundance of quality in the polo department has led to a few unintended side effects. By far the most egregious is the fact that the knit version, like an invasive species in the polo ecosystem, has more or less naturalized over the classic pique style.

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You might be thinking that this is just the way things are. In our Darwinian trend cycle, polo shirts that don’t include the word “sweater” have gone the way of the dodo. This has happened before (see: plastered-on skinny jeans) and will happen again (to scroll your FYP is to watch the mass extinction of Adidas Sambas in real time). Comme ci, comme ça.

But to let the pique polo fade away would be a travesty, and not just for the sake of sartorial biodiversity. It may often go unsung as a wardrobe staple, but a fitted, pique-weave polo (specifically in navy or white) is one of the few truly versatile options available to the well-dressed guy over the age of 21. It’s an easy replacement for an Oxford underneath a navy blazer and tucked into a pair of smart trousers, but it looks James Dean levels of ravishing with your most-loved jeans and Harrison Ford at Cannes circa 1982-esque when doubled up with your shortest pair of tennis shorts.

A quick 411 for those unfamiliar souls who are wondering what’s so special about pique, as opposed to modern polyester-based blends: Widely popularized by none other than French outfitters Lacoste, pique (pronounced as “peak,” unless you want to be an asshole about it) is a cotton weave characterized by its tiny, waffle-like quilted pattern, which creates a visibly textured appearance and offers, among other things, improved breathability when compared to other cotton weaves. Piques are historically made from 100% cotton, another hallmark of quality. Essentially, it’s a well-made shirt by nature, one that fits most guys the way clothes should fit and patinas into a “piece” over years of wear.

PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 05: A guest (L) wears sunglasses, a white with dark green and pink straps polo from Lacoste, a pale pink and orange striped wool pullover, a white pleated / accordion short skirt, a black shiny leather shoulder bag, a guest (R) wears sunglasses, a pale pink polo shirt from Lacoste, a pale yellow hoodie sweater, black belt from Lacoste, dark green sport pants, a blue shiny leather handbag, outside Lacoste, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2022, on October 05, 2021 in Paris, France. — The pique polo doesn’t have to be boring.

Edward Berthelot/Getty Images

Have you been converted to the cause? I can only hope so. If you do indeed find yourself with the burning desire to spray paint “Save the Pique Polo!” over the Mona Lisa, take a pause, and just buy one instead. Preferably, a 100% cotton joint, from a known and respectable brand: Ralph Lauren, Stone Island, the aforementioned Lacoste. Pair it with similarly timeless staples that haven’t quite gotten their shine in recent years (yes, I am indeed talking about the Baracuta Harrington jacket) for maximum effect.

Get out there, you little conservationist, you. Save the world, one pique polo out at a time. Oh, and enjoy the long weekend.