What we’re drinking: Acrónimo Sotol Blanco and Acrónimo Gin
Where it’s from: Launched last fall, this Chihuahua, Mexico-based spirits brand is led by founder Alessandra Camino Creel (who’s only 32) and her brother Jose Luis. The spirits are made in cooperation with the Casa Ruelas Distillery, which has crafted sotol for more than five generations.
Why we’re drinking this: Because not everything from Mexico needs to be tequila or mezcal. We really dug a Mexican whisky a few years back, and rum has a pretty strong base in the country’s history. But with Acrónimo, we’re talking about sotol and a gin finished with sotol, which might be a first. As a reminder, sotol isn’t made from agave but a shrub-like plant called Dasylirion. It’s cooked, fermented and milled like a mezcal, and you can only make it in certain areas; it’s protected by Denomination of Origin and limited to three states in Mexico. Well, sort of (see below).
6 Mexican Spirits You Should Know That Aren’t Tequila or Mezcal
Put down the margarita, and pick up… some rum?So why the lack of sotol love? It’s a long story, but the Mexican government didn’t initially seem too fond of the spirit, which dates back hundreds of years; it was banned and only legalized again in 1994. “With sotol, it’s a category you have to start by explaining it,” Creel says. “You have to say it’s not agave, it’s not tequila, it’s its own thing. And we’re also trying to be the ambassador for the region. I’m from Chihuahua, and the first thing that comes to mind for most people is the dog (laughs). We’d like to change that to make sotol do for Chihuahua what mezcal did for Oaxaca.”
Part of the reason for associating sotol with specific Mexican states is that the spirit has been slowly but steadily making inroads in the United States via a few American-based producers, primarily in Texas. Should producers not based in Mexico be able to call it sotol? “There’s a controversy,” Creel says. “But I’m not going to be the police about that. It’s better for consumers just to get the liquid to their lips and be interested in a different type of spirit.”
Part of Acronimo’s plan is also to introduce sotol by way of its new gin, which is crafted in a traditional sotol copper pot still with 10 locally-sourced botanicals (including juniper from the nearby Sierra Tarahumara mountainous region) and finished with 17% Acronimo Sotol Blanco. “Gin is a rising category in Mexico,” Creel says. “And with ours, we’re blending two cultures and creating a new product.”
Let’s test these out.
How they taste: Both the gin and sotol come in at 42% ABV.
- Acronimo Sotol Blanco: Vegetal and herbal on the nose, the final result is more balanced and bright, featuring hints of citrus, green pepper, peppercorn and a nice underlying minerality. It’s somewhere between a mezcal and a gin and quite versatile.
- Acronimo Gin: Speaking of gin, this one is certainly juniper-forward and floral, layered with notes of lemon zest (almost Lemon Pledge-like), cardamom, white pepper and lavender. It’s bright but also bold.
Fun fact: The Creel family legacy is interesting and has a U.S. connection. It centers around Reuben Creel, who served as Mexico’s U.S. Consul during Abraham Lincoln’s presidency. One of his children, Enrique Creel, became the Governor, Minister of Foreign Affairs and Ambassador in Chihuahua and played a large role in the construction of the Chihuahua-Pacific railroad.
Where to buy: The two expressions are available online for $55 to $60 each.
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