Welcome to our summer produce series. Every week until the end of August, we’re highlighting the most in-season fruit or veggie of the moment, as handpicked by the experts at Natoora. You can learn more about the company and how they work with farmers in our first piece of the series.
The weeks of summer fruit continue with another favorite that I basically keep around for the entirety of the season: blueberries. I admit that I enjoy blueberries in my morning smoothie even out of season, mostly because there are a number of companies who freeze them at their prime (shoutout to Wyman’s Wild Blueberries). But there’s nothing quite like buying a farm-fresh pint of the summer berry and grabbing a handful multiple times a day, whenever I happen to pass by the fridge (which is often). And because they’re indigenous to these parts, they’re typically really, really good.
“Blueberries are native to the Northeast and thrive in New York’s summer heat,” says Natoora brand manager Phoebe Creaghan. Maine is typically the first locale that comes to mind when thinking of blueberries, but the whole region is bursting with them come July. Natoora sources their crop from Samascott Orchards, located east of the Hudson in upstate New York.
“At their peak, [Jake Samascott’s] blueberries exhibit a highly complex flavor with warm spice notes,” Creaghan says. “He is growing a few highbush varieties in Kinderhook, long-living perennials that require extra effort but are worth the work. Some of Jake’s plants are newer varieties, planted in the last few years, but quite a few have been established for well over 30 years. They pick them ripe daily, which keeps the plants healthy and produces loads of fruit.”
Even if you can’t make it to Kinderhook for Samascott’s blueberries, now is the time to snag them from your local farmers market. Here’s a rundown of everything you need to know, courtesy of Natoora:
- What to look for when shopping: Ripe berries are blue yet firm.
- How to store for maximum freshness: Changes in temperature will damage the fruit. Store unwashed in the fridge with cover, keep handling to a minimum and keep flat (pressure will damage and bruise fruit). They can also be frozen.
- How to use: Enjoy as is; add to both savory and sweet dishes; or use to make compotes, jams and pies.
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Steve McHugh, the author of “Cured,” shows us how to make mustard with the sweet-tart summer produceThe Recipe
One of my favorite ways to use fresh blueberries is in these crumb bars from Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen. Even a mediocre baker like me can tackle the recipe and make the summer fruit shine. But if you’re looking for a way to use blueberries in a savory dish, this summer salad recipe from Chef Greg Wade of Publican Quality Bread in Chicago is a stunner.
If you’re not familiar with panzanella, it’s a Tuscan salad that’s typically made with stale bread and tomatoes. Drying out bread was a way for people to make their loaves last without the use of modern-day preservatives. While this recipe doesn’t call for tomatoes, it does employ the help of both blueberries and eggplant for a different but just as seasonally appropriate version. It also calls for Capriole Julianna Goat Cheese for a creamy tang, but if you can’t find that specific brand, your favorite goat cheese will do. And no need to reach for a loaf of stale bread — Wade instructs how to dry out a fresh loaf in the oven.
Now get to the farmers market this week, while this of-the-moment ingredient is still at its prime, and try your hand at this easy summer salad recipe.
Summer Panzanella With Goat Cheese
Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
- 1 Tbsp. minced shallot
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/2 tsp. black pepper
- 1 loaf country bread
- 1/4 cup piquillo peppers
- 1/4 cup blueberries
- 1/4 cup preserved eggplant
- 1/2 cup goat cheese
- 1/2 head radicchio
Directions
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For the sherry vinaigrette:
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Combine the olive oil, sherry vinegar, shallot, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Whisk to combine. Reserve until ready to dress the salad.
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For the salad:
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Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F. Cut the crust off the country bread, then cut the interior into 3/4-inch cubes. Toss the bread in olive oil and toast in the oven for 12 to 15 minutes until golden and crisp. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before finishing the salad.
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Slice the piquillo peppers and preserved eggplant into ribbons. Preserved eggplant can be found at specialty Italian markets, but you can also choose to grill slices of eggplant until tender and then slice those into strips.
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Slice the radicchio in half, then remove the core. Cut the half in half again, giving you one quarter of a head, then slice that into quarter-inch strips. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the cheese into nice long strips and add to the salad (or crumble into bite-sized pieces, if that’s better for the texture of the cheese that you have).
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Combine all ingredients and toss with the vinaigrette. Top with more cheese, if desired, and serve immediately.
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