To keep tabs on every New York restaurant and bar opening is folly. But to keep tabs on the most worthy? Yeoman’s work, and we’re proud to do it. Thus we present Table Stakes, a monthly rundown of the five (or so) must-know spots that have swung wide their doors in the past thirty (or so). Bon appétit.
Maison Yaki
Prospect Heights, Brooklyn
You’re here because: French fare doesn’t have to mean A) no fun and B) breaking the bank … anymore.
You’re dining on Chef Greg Baxtrom’s (of Olmstead) yakitori take on traditional French dishes. Expect affordable (see: nothing over $9), smaller dishes like Tempura Frog Legs Provencal, Chicken Breast and Sauce Allemande ( a must!), and Escargot in Shiso Butter.
626 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn (map)
Website
Crown Shy
Financial District
You’re here because: An Eleven Madison Park alum wants you and yours to feel like you’re dining in a neighborhood haunt. Indulge him.
You’re dining on: The menu is split into four: small plates, grains, veggies and mains with standouts like Chicken Liver Ragu with Horseradish and Charred Octopus accompanied by Red Rice and Morcilla.
Wild Ink
Midtown West
You’re here because: Your date wants to go to the new Hudson Yards hotspot (in a mall) where three dumplings cost $15, so that’s what you’re going to do.
You’re dining on: “Pan-Asian cuisine with an International approach” from executive chef Peter Jin and one-time Momofuku powerhouse Chef Tien Ho. Standouts include Duck a la Kumquat (no sides) for $42 and the real star, the Roasted 20-oz. Creekstone Bone-In Ribeye with knockout Marmite Hollandaise.
Gertie
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
You’re here because: All of your friends have jumped ship to L.A., but apparently we get this little gem back as collateral.
You’re (not) dining on: Avocado toast, surprisingly/thankfully. Instead, expect carefree delights like Pot Pie and and Smoked Fish “Sandy.” Night time’s big hitter is the Poppy’s Duck, a whole rotisserie bird served family style to feed 4-6 of your nearest and dearest (not that you’ll need to call in advance to reserve this $75 item, though).
357 Grand Street, Brooklyn (map)
Website
Au Cheval
Chinatown
You’re here because: You and your buddy are burger connoisseurs and ready to critique Chicago’s (and maybe even the nation’s) best burger.
You’re dining on: A fancy burger piled to the sky with two Angus beef patties, bacon, American cheese, pickles and a fried egg should you so desire, all squished between a bun toasted to perfection.
33 Cortland Alley (map)
Website
Wayan
Nolita
You’re here because: A Cedric Vongerichten (son of Jean-Georges) French-meets-Indonesian eatery sounds like a perfect night out whether you’re entertaining your mother, brother or best buddy.
You’re dining on: Dishes heavy with lemongrass, ginger and sambal chile, starting with notables like the Javanese Oxtail Soup and Clams Jimbaran Style. Close ‘er out with the knockout Steamed Black Sea Bass with chili-calamansi vinaigrette and cilantro.
20 Spring Street (map)
Website
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