The zoot suit originated in Harlem, New York during the Great Depression. During this time, menswear manufacturers needed to develop a fashionable line of clothing that would allow their male clientele to make an impression while owning a durable and inexpensive working uniform. At the same time, a subculture developed, one that spread across the country and among young people, of those who were suspicious of authority and had developed a rebellious attitude. To them, fashion and jazz were means of survival and style was an expression of strength and fluidity, all of which was communicated through the zoot suit.
The suit “pulled out the lines and shape of the traditional suit to widen a man’s shoulders, lengthen his torso and loosen his limbs,” according to Timeline. The zoot suit had distinctive markers—pegged pants, drape cut, and long coat —that allowed men to be both playful and masculine in their dress.
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