The Amalfi Coast is full of spectacular beauty, from the colorful homes decorating the cliffs to the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea and iconic namesake lemon trees. However, if you arrive without doing much research or having an understanding of how busy the season is, you may be surprised to find it an assault on the senses as you navigate the crowded streets of Positano. While a stay at the iconic Le Sirenuse is absolutely one of life’s greatest luxuries, I believe there is otherwise no reason to make your home base one of the bigger towns on the Amalfi Coast if “quiet luxury” is what you’re after.
Enter Conca dei Marini, an unassuming cliffside town seated about halfway between Sorrento and Salerno — and just a 25-minute drive from Positano — that’s often nowhere to be found on a basic tourist’s map of the Amalfi Coast. The town was first made known to Americans in 1962 when Jackie Kennedy was leaving from its port to go water skiing while on vacation with her family. But it didn’t boast the elegant hotels and lively beach clubs of Capri and Positano to make it stick as a tourist destination. Thus, it continued to remain the area’s best-kept secret.
Nearly 50 years later, Conca dei Marini’s potential was recognized by Texas-based entrepreneur Bianca Sharma, who noticed a beautiful but crumbling clifftop monastery while boating in the Gulf of Salerno. It was love at first sight, leading Sharma to pack up and move to the coast and spend the next 12 years restoring the 17th-century property to honor its storied history while ensuring it would be perfectly suited to serve as a five-star boutique resort and spa.
Monastero Santa Rosa houses just 20 rooms and suites (each with a sea view) for an intimate experience best-suited for couples or solo travel. While the hotel is certainly secluded, there’s a fantastic Michelin-starred restaurant for dinner, Il Refettorio; an indoor-outdoor cocktail bar below; a vine-covered poolside cafe that boasts swoon-worthy views; and a wine cellar that highlights the best Italian wines, from local whites to vintage Barolos.
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It turns out you, too, can live like Clooney at LarioThe property’s spa celebrates the Italian heritage of bathing in thermal waters and features a variety of hot and cold therapies, plus utilizes products from the iconic Santa Maria Novella. If you prefer to find your wellness out of doors, the hotel is home to beautiful terraced organic gardens to peruse, an outdoor fitness center and the real showstopper, a vanished edge infinity pool with some of the best views on the coast. Needless to say, there’s no reason to leave. But if you are looking to do a bit of exploring, Monastero Santa Rosa offers daily complimentary shuttles to Amalfi (a quick 10-minute drive) until midnight, and you can work with them to secure transportation or plan experiences to other destinations on the coast.
A newcomer to the Conca dei Marini hospitality scene has emerged in the ultra-chic Borgo Santandrea, the first luxury hotel to open on the coast in 15 years. This property is better suited for families and a great pick for those seeking the classic Amalfi Coast beach club experience without sacrificing the serenity this cliffside coastal town has to offer. Opened in 2022, the hotel has become a top destination for discerning travelers of all kinds, and its signature restaurant, Alici, recently received a Michelin star. It features two other dining destinations and two terrace cocktail bars when you’re seeking something a bit more casual.
The amenity-rich property also has an oceanfront pool, wellness center with a spa, ample fitness offerings and a new collection of luxury boats — dubbed the “Borgo Fleet” — that connect guests to the rest of the island and its cultural traditions. Whether you’re looking to take a day trip to Capri or Ischia, join a mozzarella workshop in a nearby town or travel to Positano for dinner, Borgo Santandrea’s concierge will help craft the perfect itinerary.
Conca dei Marini is home to the enchanting Emerald Grotto (Grotta dello Smeraldo), which is best accessed by boat. It’s also worth visiting Torre del Capo di Conca, a 16th-century guard tower that protected the former port town from invasion for generations. Lido del Capo di Conca is the beach of choice if you’re looking for a place beyond the pool to sunbathe, and the town of Conca dei Marini itself is worth exploring for its beautiful homes and charming restaurants. Design aficionados won’t want to miss a stop at Piccadilly Ceramics for souvenirs that are worth the precious luggage space. Plus, there’s plenty of wind surfing, scuba diving, kayaking and walking trails to enjoy in the vicinity.
While Conca dei Marini’s hospitality offerings are small, they are certainly mighty and ideal for a variety of guests dreaming of a luxurious getaway. Whether you’re looking for a honeymoon destination, multi-generational family vacation or a solo sabbatical, this charming town is sure to capture your heart, as it offers the best of Amalfi at your fingertips without the bustle and crowds you likely came to escape.
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