Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka represent the big three for most visitors to Japan. There, you’ll revel in the bright lights and big cities while enjoying plenty of history and culture. Elsewhere, maybe Sapporo on the northern island of Hokkaido is calling, or instead, the sandy, southern beaches of Okinawa in the Ryukyu Islands, closer to Taiwan and China than Japan’s largest island of Honshu.
Swerving off the main tourist trail in the country, though, opens up a wealth of new possibilities. You’ll find reduced crowds at destinations tucked away amid lush, natural environments, as well as secondary cities that offer an abundance of attractions and regional culinary delights.
I can’t imagine ever returning to Japan without spending time in Tokyo, but the more I’ve been able to explore the rest of the country, the more I’ve realized what an incredible range of hidden gems remain unearthed in the minds of most American tourists. Even better, with Japan’s high-speed rail network, you’re never embarking upon circuitous, lengthy slogs to get there. These overlooked Japanese destinations are within easy reach of starting points such as the aforementioned big three, making them prime candidates for overnight trips and extensions.
Shima
Coastal Shima, located in Mie prefecture, is known as a beautiful, natural haven. It’s home to the sprawling Ise-Shima National Park and its hilly trails and ample wildlife, as well as the scenic, ocean environs and cliffs of Ise Bay and Ago Bay.
Nature isn’t just around you in Shima; it’s a way of life, one that will work to bring down your heart rate and blood pressure as if on command as soon as you arrive. The area is nestled between Nagoya and Osaka, and is within reach of Tokyo as well, but feels as if it’s a world apart from the hustle and bustle of Japan’s metropolises.
Stay at Amanemu, one of three Aman hotels in Japan. It’s an immersive onsen resort that combines old-school ryokan sensibilities with Aman’s super luxe modern touch. The swanky property displays Minka architecture, drawing from the natural surroundings and a less-is-more philosophy, while emphasizing the staggering setting and awe-inspiring views from every angle. Each room in the hotel has its own private in-room onsen bath, with mineral rich waters filling a large granite soaking tub at about 140 degrees, offering a romantic and relaxing form of indulgence. Accommodations include suites and two-bedroom villas scattered across the expansive grounds, all of which have generous outdoor spaces with water views. You can even combine stays across Aman’s in-country portfolio with their signature Aman Japan Journey.
Across Amanemu, seasonality and locality take on a starring role. It’s seen in the ingredients used by the kitchen, the rotating selection of inventive cocktails, the flowers and plants on display, and every small, intricate detail you could conjure. Chef Katsutoshi Kiatahara deploys the region’s best ingredients in starring roles, whether spiny lobster and abalone from the bay or local, high-grade wagyu. One highlight is an expansive Ise Jingu shrine breakfast set inspired by the Shinto site regarded as the Soul of Japan; the revered complex is more than 2,000 years old. But there are also offerings ranging from sake tastings to tea ceremonies to suit your mood.
Embark on a forest bathing session by walking upon the region’s renowned, historic pilgrim trails, and then soothe your aches and stresses away with hours spent at the resort’s hot springs, baths and saunas. Take a dip in the pool, soak up the views and breathe in air so fresh and vibrant it should be bottled and sold to the city-bound among us. That’s called doing Japan the right way.
Nikko
Head north on the train about two hours from Tokyo and you’ll reach Nikko, a small town with a unique and out-sized history. It used to be the home of dozens of summer embassy villas, with foreign dignitaries escaping Tokyo’s sweltering heat by enjoying the area’s crisp mountain air and cool waters.
Only 4,000 people live in Nikko city, and its myriad shrines and temples are considered to be part of a large UNESCO site. Meanwhile, in a tiny village with perhaps just 100 residents a few miles down the road, there’s now a luxurious new hotel, The Ritz-Carlton, Nikko.
The 94-room property opened in July 2020 and may mark the smallest and most remote setting for such a high-profile, international brand. Make no mistake though, while the environs are quaint, the property is anything but, delivering a stylish, contemporary design playing on traditional ryokan style and amenities.
The hotel’s several interconnected buildings include a large onsen and spa, while rooms are designed to maximize views of Mount Nantai and Lake Chuzenji. Features include large, walk-in granite showers, soaking tubs and small touches ranging from bonsai trees to zen rock gardens, along with full yukata and kimono sets, as well as wooden clogs, to use at the onsen.
Be sure to visit The Bar, with a sweeping selection of more than 100 Japanese whiskies and a special partnership with Afuri Ramen to deliver a signature evening ramen service making use of local ingredients. The extravagant preparation is like none other.
The hotel’s The Japanese Restaurant offers a wonderful kaiseki menu, as well as teppanyaki and other cuisine, while down the road in town, you’ll want to pull up a counter stool at local shop Tonkatsu Asai for a hearty lunchtime plate. Work it off by visiting nearby waterfalls, walking trails and temples for further exploration.
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Karuizawa
Karuizawa is a major wintertime ski destination, and the outlet stores adjacent to its train station are another lure for day-trippers from Tokyo. The mountain town in the Nagano prefecture is about an hour west from Tokyo via the Shinkansen, and its key appeal is its pristine wilderness, with dense forests criss-crossed by clear streams and fertile soil producing a bounty from the land. It’s also a prime destination for hot spring lovers and onsen aficionados.
Book a room at the 77-room Hoshinoya Karuizawa, home to a large onsen complex including a facility open to the public and daytime visitors, and a secluded option for resort guests. The property opened 19 years ago as the first under the now prominent Hoshinoya banner, a brand known for combining luxury accommodations with an emphasis on a slower, traditional way of life. It’s on the site of a ryokan which had been operating on the grounds for 150 years, and is connected by walking trails to a charming complex of shops and restaurants meant to evoke the feel of a historic village.
Guests are encouraged to wear comfortable, pajama-like kimono and robe sets around the property, including to meals and activities. Rooms are spread in small clusters and either offer more of a mountain or river feel depending on the location, with deep, aromatic wood soaking tubs, low-slung platform beds and minimalist décor and furnishings.
Between the onsens, wildlife viewing and a range of cultural activities and programs, many guests won’t leave the property over the course of a stay. Instead, they’ll indulge in immersive culinary offerings such as lavish Alpine breakfast sets and 10-course mountain kaiseki dinner menus. For an extra excursion though, consider a visit to the newly opened Komoro Distillery, a project spearheaded by former long-time Kavalan master blender Ian Chang.
Hiroshima
There’s no escaping Hiroshima’s history, and while it would be harrowing for anyone, there’s an extra layer of profound resonance as an American visitor. A visit to the Peace Memorial Museum should be mandatory for any visitor, and it’s a stark and difficult experience with shocking imagery and stories. The surrounding park though, the epicenter of the atomic impact and detonation, is somehow peaceful and calming, while the still-standing Atomic Bomb Dome is a chilling remnant of the devastation.
Look beyond the history and you’ll find a thriving modern city filled with walking paths, cycling lanes and wide, green avenues. A bustling central district offers much of the energy of a city such as Osaka, if on a smaller scale, while Hiroshima’s culinary scene is a beast all its own.
City-wide highlights include dishes such as Hiroshima-style, spicy dan dan noodles, as well as tsukemen dipping noodles. The one word to know in town, though, is okonomiyaki. The savory pancakes are a Hiroshima specialty prepared to order on steel griddles, and they stand apart in style from Osaka’s version of the dish. Rather than their batter-bound brethren, in Hiroshima, they’re almost more like crepes, with distinct top and bottom layers loaded with sauces, seasonings and toppings, and stuffed with a central core of noodles. There are dozens of recommended shops across Hiroshima, and even an entire office building, Okonomimura, dedicated to the dish. (Because it’s Japan, so of course there is.)
From Hiroshima, you’d be remiss to not visit Miyajima Island. It’s home to the Itsukushima Shrine and its famed floating torii gate, and is a short train-and-ferry trip away. The island is loaded with shops and restaurants, some of which offer deals such as refillable whisky highball cups to take with you as you stroll around.
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